DO NOT INSTALL!

The issues that you can potentially get from installing are:

• It can change all your images to load into a default program and not photoshop like you had it set before.
• It can on starting up look for all the images in your personal folders and regardless of them being photos you have taken and ignoring your folder structure (if any) and places them some where else in a different folder structure.
• When you connect your camera or a mates camera it will start automatically and go nuts downloading all your pictures even though you only wanted to look.
• Takes way too long to load.
• Takes way too long to download.
• No upload features (upload to flickr).
• No support for other operating systems like Linux or MacOS.
• Key photo manipulating features can be missing.
• Can be buggy as hell.
• Your camera will only work in this software even if before you could browse your memory card via windows.

That’s only the things I can think of. I am sure there is more!

So maybe leave your software in the box because you would be better off?

Now for the exception to the rule!

I was talking to my mate ‘S’ from high school about his new Canon 450d and one thing lead to another and I found out that he did not even take the disc out the box. Now addmittedly he runs Linux so he does not need to bother looking if the software is supported.

But it planted the this seed.

What if there is other users that don’t install the default software because of the bad experiences like the ones listed above?

If you have a Canon DSLR then you should install the EOS Utility and here is why.

You can tether your camera to your computer or laptop and have the possibility to control the camera and even use live view! After that you can also set up time lapse or a interval in bulb exposure mode. Not impressed yet?  can take it a step a further by setting up a folder where your EOS Utility could store your photos. Then have lightroom (or potentially any other good photo suite) monitor that folder in your hard drive and automatically have lightroom import anything new from it.

So you get a remote control, mass storage and the editor of your choice! Seamless integration!

There are other alternatives! DSLR Remote to name one but it is not for free. I feel that it is more featured and no frills but it costs too much to warrant buying it unless you are a super pro photographer (then why are you reading my blog ).

Regardless of the camera you have. Give the manual a look over and also read the reviews. Try to find out if the software is useful and bug free.

Don’t rely on past experiences any more.

So lets get started.

1. Shutter Release

Pressing the shutter release fully will take a picture. The button can also be pressed half way (not completely down) which will tell the camera to auto focus and to take a meter reading to determine your settings. This half pressed feature is really important, here is why: when your taking a picture in auto mode the camera will guess what you want to focus on but its not always right. Lets say your taking a picture of a model in front and to the right of a tower, so the tower is in the middle. The camera will keep focusing on the tower as its big and in the middle but then leaving your model blurred. You can just point the camera at your model, then half press the shutter release button to focus on him/her and then while holding it half pressed you can move back to having your tower in the middle again. You will have kept the focus set to the model and if you release the button and try again it would focus back on the tower.

As a little side note. Nikon and Canon use a AF point system which means you can set where the camera will focus to within the camera without using the shutter release method.

2. Main Dial or Configuration selector

Depending on which option you have selected this cog dial will allow you to change the value of that option.

3. ISO

You can press this and then select an ISO that you need or set it to automatically select the ISO.

4. Power On/Off

If I have to explain this… Well you should know its the switch that activates the mini black hole that sucks in everything into your cameras memory card. Use with caution.

5. Mode Dial

Here you can select all the modes that are available for your camera. Starting from A-Dep we will work our way around (of course more detailed explanations will be available for each mode later).

A-Dep : Auto Depth of field - This mode allows the camera to automatically set the depth of field without any fuss. What is depth of field?

M : Manual Mode - Full manual mode giving you complete control over all the cameras functions!

AV : Aperture Priority Mode - Turns everything on Auto except Aperture and ISO.

TV : Shutter Priority Mode – Turns everything on Auto except Shutter speed and ISO.

P : Program Mode - When used will set all the settings automatically but then gives you the ability to change things depending on your situation. (maybe auto mode makes the image too light and you can adjust it within P mode)

Green Square : Full Auto Mode - All the configurable functions in the camera are under the cameras control and you can’t change anything.

Persons Head : Portrait Mode - Auto mode that will configure the camera for portraits

Island with Tree : Landscape Mode - Auto mode that will configure the camera for landscapes (including night scenes)

Flower : Macro Mode - Or also known as “close-up mode” is an auto mode that will configure the camera for really really close up shots.

Running guy : Sports Mode – Auto mode that will configure the camera for shooting Sports or moving objects.

Guy with a Star : Night Portrait Mode - Auto mode that will configure the camera for night portrait shots.

So we now know where some of the basic functions are for the Canon 450D which hopefully wont be all that different form Nikon’s or Sony DSLR’s. If your using a point and shoot camera however you might not have any of these options at all and if you do they could be hidden in some menu. Simply consult your manual for these modes and hopefully you have them.

In part two I will finish off the rest of the Canon 450D and then after that we can move on the more technical side of photography explain Aperture, Shutter Speed and ISO.

If I have made any mistakes please let me know!

For example a grainy black and white image of a building might make the image look old and used this can be achieved with the cheapest of cameras.

Their are many types of cameras these days so first I will list them and then brake them down afterwards:

Camera Phone
Point and Shoot
Bridge Camera
SLR – Single-lens Reflex
DSLR – Digital Single-lens Reflex

Camera Phone

Probably something you already own. This low featured camera is probably the most difficult to use creatively because you don’t have a whole lot of options. But times have changed and camera phones like the Iphone or anything Sony is bringing out are giving you more and more.

If you’re considering buying a new phone maybe you would like to consider the camera part as well. Its not the best starting point to photography at all but it can be useful when you need to shoot something but have left your real camera at home.

Prime example of the camera phones usefulness can be found here: Twitter and a classic picture

Point and Shoot

These cameras are just that “point and shoot” typically these are for the Auto mode users that don’t want to spend the money on a huge brick of a camera.

Now you can get great pictures from these cameras but there is a consistent number of throwaways. There is nothing wrong with that normally but it could mean missing important events.

Night shooting is not it’s strongest point either. If you’re in a concert you might find it just won’t give you anything good. Now the reason for this is because you’re likely using some degree of Auto mode where the camera guesses the settings it needs based on the environment. This can be tricky if you want to focus on one thing but the camera sets up on something else.

Again though times are changing and the newer and more expensive cameras give the user much more control. As a starting point this is probably the cheapest without getting into anything too Technical.

Bridge Cameras

These cameras are an awesome starting point for anyone budding photgrapher. As the name might suggest the Bridge camera, bridges the technological gap between point and shoots and DSLRS. They normally come fully featured like a DSLR but don’t have a removable lens. The downside is that they are not as powerful in quality and have issues in low light.

They do come with an Auto mode like most cameras so if you can brave the dials and buttons you can stick to Auto mode like and point and shoot then as you learn you can move on to the other settings.

One thing to note when you have a bridge camera: If you have a book that just talks about settings on a DSLR if you try and copy those settings you might have a different results. This is due to the fact that bridge cameras are typically fixed lens cameras. Bryan Peterson: Understanding Exposure does give a full yet brief explanation.

SLR – Single-lens Reflex

These are old school film cameras. The only reason why I mention them is that you can pick up the cameras and lenses on Ebay or as one of my friends often does, buys them from a car boot sale / garage sale really really cheaply.

They do have a disadvantage by not being digital and you will never get instant feed back but I have to be honest there is nothing more exciting that getting film developed and holding your own work in your hands.

Not something for a beginner really because film will cost you a lot of money. But if you mastered the bridge camera settings and read a few books these blasts from the past can be really inspirational.

If anything else having film will make you think 100% more about the picture your taking which will improve your eye for a photo.

DSLR – Digital Single-lens Reflex

DSLR range from 300 to 7000+ euros. Depending on what you want you can spend a huge amount of money. Lots of people say “photography as a hobby is way too expensive” and when looking at DSLR’s they are right! BUT once you get yourself kitted out with your gear (case camera lens and memory cards) the theory is you wont want to buy anything more for another 2 years (depending on wither you are one of those kids with your nose up against the shop window all the time).

These are the best cameras you can buy by far. But there is a difference between models and brands in this class. So do your research first!

As for a beginner it’s not just a dream to start with a DSLR. You still likely have an Auto mode! But I would say this: Don’t buy a DSLR unless you are serious about using the settings on it at some point. If you are not bothered about learning you can save yourself a lot of money buying a cheaper bridge camera.

Another note to remember: When I was looking for a new camera I had a lot of negative feed back on both Nikon and Canon cameras that I was considering. It seems there is a level of fanboy feelings about the two brands. Just stay objective and open minded and remember that all cameras and all lenses have a negative.

Nothing in photography is perfect… Some of us would not have it any other way!